Process of imitating beige or vigoreux by printing.



No. 694,860. Patented Mar. 4, I902.

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PROCESS OF IHITATJNG BEIGE 0R VIGOREUX BY PRINTING.

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UNITED, STATES PATENT @rrroit.

LOUIS HIRSGH, OF GERA, GERMANY.

PROCESS OF IMITA'TING BEIGE OR VIG OREUX BY PRINTING.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 694,860, dated March 4, 1902.

Application filed May 20, 1898. $erial No. 681,243- (llo specimens) To all wk-om, it may concern.-

Be it known that I, LOUIS HIRSCH, a subject of the Emperor of Germany, and a resident of Gera, in the principality of Reuse, Empire of Germany, have invented a certain new and useful Process for the Manufacture of Imitation Beige, Vigoreux,or Melange, of

c which the following is a specification.

1 The present invention relates to a process for producing animitation of awoolen fabric commonly known as beige, vigorous, or melange, by which it is to be understood such a fabric of wool as is produced from yarns dyed while in the loose state, then combed, then printed as fleece, and then again combed, and thereafter stretched and spun. As a result of this stretching the printed designs on the yarn are distorted in such a manner asto form an irregular indistinct figure and bring out apeculiar effect in the fabric. Such fabric is well known by the name of beige, vigoreux, or melange. In the second combing the regular printed colorlinesthat is to say, the stripes-become obyiated, and from this comes a variegated of special designs, and the latter must accordingly be produced frequently in small quantity. Moreover, it often happens that the spinner does not have yarn of a certain color upon the frame; but the yarn must be colored especially for the desired design of the fabric to be produced wherefore in such cases the weaver must apply tot-he spinner for the small quantityof speciallycolored yarn desired; but the spinner can produce the desired shade of yarn economically only in large quantity. Hence it follows that the weaver has to incur considerable loss by being required to lay in an amount of warp-yarn which he cannot completely use up. This is easily understood Byv - when one considers thataseparate warp must always be prepared for each color. He is therefore frequently placed in the undesirable position of sufiering great loss either through warp waste or an overproduction of a particular design of fabric from the warp on hand. All of these difficulties are completely overcome by the use of my new process, which will now be described.

Inthefirst place the weaver weaves from undyed or unprinted yarn a certain raw fabric of suitable quality as a foundation. The fabric is then sent to the printer, who handles it according to the present new processthat is to say, he colors or roughly prints it and produces a fabric so good an imitation that it is admittedly difficult to distinguish whether the exhibited goods is vigoreux yarn or produced by the processforming the subjectmatter of the present application. 7

My new process consists in taking either raw, bleached, or colored fabric and printing it with straight, wavy, irregular, clustered, or separated lines in imitation of the characteristic beige weft or the beige warp.

7 By my invention a fabric of a similar ap pearance and a like character is now produced in the following manner: The rough fabric is prepared for printing by being bleached,

fixed, washed, and dried, according to requirement, and finally colored,if desired. After the fabric has been prepared in this man ner it is printed by means of engraved rol1= ers in such a manner that the combination of the printing of the rollers and the rough fab ric produces an efiect characteristic of beige, The fabric can be ing comes the fixing process. For this purpose the printed fabric is wound up with bleached cotton cloths and placed in a closed chamber for a long time under continuous shaking for the action'of the steam, about three-fourths atmosphere.

In the case of easily-running colors the fabric is stretched on snail-shaped reels provided with pins, and the steam is allowed to work upon it while in this condition. After this manipulation with steam, which is characterized by the use of steam, the fabric is washed, dried, and finishedinthe usual manner.

represents my design for warp effect printed on uncolored fabric. Fig. Vrepresents my design for weft effect printed on uncolored fabric. Fig. VI represents my design for the combined warp and weft effect printed on uncolored fabric. Fig. VII represents my design for the warp effect printed on purplecolored fabric, as indicated by the conventional diagonal lines used for such color. Fig. VIII represents my design for the weft effect printed on purple-colored fabric, as indicated by the conventional diagonal lines used for such color. Fig. IX represents my design for the combined warp and weft effect printed on purple-colored fabric, as indicated by the conventional diagonal lines used for such color. Fig. X is a side elevation of a roll for printing the warp effect. Fig. XI is a side elevation of a roll for printing the weft effect.

1 represents warpthreads, 2 the weftthreads, and 3 conventional diagonal lines indicating the purple coloring of the ground of a fabric on which my design for beige, vigoreux, and melange effect is printed.

4 represents the warp effect, and 5 the weft effect.

6 is a printing-roll having the warp design thereon, and 7 is a printing-roll having the weft design thereon.

The perfection of imitations by this process is appreciated from the effect that an operator himself is scarcely able to distinguish between a sample of imitation and a sample of real beige or vigoreuX.

If the imitation is to be a complete one, the process must be applied to both sides of the fabric and with the idea of being able to turn the goods on either side. It may also be added that it is not very easy to find the right pattern, especially for uncolored fabrics. It depends very largely upon the character of the fabric itself. A very important feature of the manipulation is the time and manner of steaming the goods after the printing that fixes the colors. After the steaming the thickening is Washed out in the customary manner. After drying the fabric is finished according to the requirement, whether it is to be smooth, roughened, pressed, or hotpressed.

From Figs. X and XI it is obvious that of the printing-rolls serving for the accomplishment of the process one roll, Fig. X, has the engraving circumferential and furnishes the design which represents the warp of the imitation, while the other roll, Fig. XI, has the engraving in direction of its length, and thus represents the weft of the imitation. In single-color designs both effects can obviously be produced by-a single cylinder.

The process can be applied upon white goods. as well as previously-colored goods.

In clear-shaded goods a previous coloring is not necessary and not employed; but in dark-shaded goods the production is simpler when the goods are previously colored, because in this manner the uniformity is more readily obtained.

The pattern used in the process is engraven upon one or-more copper or brass rollers. Through the medium of a feed-roller a coating of color is applied to the printing-roller from a color-tron gh located beneath the printing-roller. By means of along flexible knife the surplus color is scraped from the feedroller and the color remains only in the depressions of the engraving of the printingroller. The goods treated travel abouta large roller provided with an elastic surface. The printing-roller is pressed by spring-pressure against the large roller, whereby the color contained in the depressions of the printingroller is transferred to the goods. The goods pass over hot plates for the purpose of drying the color impressed thereon.

Having thus described my invention, the following is what I claim as new therein and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. As a new article of manufacture the herein-described imitation beige' or like fabric, consisting of a body of suitable fabric marked with thread-lines imitating the warp and weft characteristics of said fabric.

2. As a new article of manufacture the herein-described imitation beige or like fabric consisting of a body of rough fabric marked with threadlines imitating the warp and weft characteristics of the said fabric.

3. As a new article of manufacture the herein-described imitation beige or like fabric con sisting of a body of rough bleached fabric marked with thread-lines imitating the warp and weft characteristics of the said fabric.

4:. As a new article of manufacture the herein-described imitation beige or like fabric consisting of a body of rough colored fabric marked with thread-lines imitating the warp and weft characteristics of the said fabric.

5. The process for the manufacture of imitation beige, vigoreux, or melange or the like, which consists in printing on the surface of a woven fabric, thread effects running in the direction of both the length and the width of the woven fabric, and in imitation respectively of the warp and weft characteristics of beige, vigoreux, or melange; substantially as herein described.

6. The process for the manufacture of imitation beige, vigoreuX, melange or the like, which consists in marking a suitable fabric, by separate operations, with thread efiects running longitudinally and transversely of the fabric so as to imitate both the warp and weft characteristics of beige, vigoreux, or

melange, and then finishing the cloth in a suitable manner; substantially as and for the purpose set forth. i

7. As a new; article of nianufacture,-,the herein described imitation beige, vigoreux, or melange or the like fabric having a suitable body or groundof rough, or previouslycolored fabric marked with longitudinal and transverse thread-lines in imitation 0f the warp and Weft characteristic of the said goods imitated;substantially as described.

8. The process for the manufacture of fabric which consists in printing on textile goods an imitation of the Warp and Weft threads characteristic of beige, vigoreux, or melange, or the like; substantially as described.

' The foregoing specification signed at Gera, Reuse, Germany, this 29th day of April, 1898 LOUIS HIRSOH. Witnesses:

' LA. BRAUTIGA'M, H. MiiLLER." 

